Tracy (snuffykin) wrote,
Tracy
snuffykin

Rose "Back to the 50's" doll

“Is there any other way to go, daddy-o?”

Yes, amigurumi chibi! Rose Tyler is finally done and I’ve written a crochet pattern for her.

This little crocheted doll is inspired by the character Rose Tyler, and her visit to the 1950’s in the Doctor Who episode The Idiot’s Lantern. We got to see Rose look unusually glamorous with a new hairdo, dangly pink earrings, pink sequined top, and a swingy full pink skirt and high pink pumps. Woo! Oh, and the Doctor had a crazy pompadour. :D

Rose amongst the flowers"Hiiiiii!"Rose - Back to the 50's - back
Rose - 50's hair backRose looking for trouble!Rose - 50's skirt & heels


Eventually I hope to figure out how to make this an downloadable PDF to include all the pictures. I'll add more in progress photos to the pattern also.

The most complicated parts designing her were: the shoes, the skirt, the hair, and the face. The hair seems always to be the trickiest part. Also, for the first time, I made jewelry! I put together little earrings for mini Rose. I think the embellishments really add to it.

If you make a doll, I’d love to hear about it.

<3 from chibiRose and Snuffykin


Rose Tyler “Back to the ‘50s” amigurumi doll
Doctor Who, Season Two costume
by Snuffykin, June 2008

This is an intermediate-experienced crochet project, because of the number of parts and techniques; however, the parts are all very small! :) The doll is about 8” tall, a bit shorter than the Tenth Doctor doll.

For my photos, see http://www.flickr.com/photos/12928926@N06/sets/72157605812640311/
Rose's 50's hairdo how-to photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/12928926@N06/sets/72157605759222508/

The outfit is inspired by episode “The Idiot’s Lantern” from the 2006 season.

--------------

MATERIALS:
worsted weight yarn
-heather gray (stockings)
-pink (top, skirt, shoes)
-denim blue (jacket, arm sleeves)
-cream (skin color)
-golden yellow/cornmeal (hair color)
small amounts of thin yarn or embroidery floss: dark brown (eyes and brows), light pink (mouth)
12” of thin wire (for skirt pleating)
pink blush makeup and brush (for face)
yarn needle
long embroidery needle
crochet hook
(I used an F. It might be better with an E but I don't know how the proportions will work out then.)
stuffing
scissors

optional:
weighting material like poly-pellets for torso
a pair fishhook earrings with dangly small clear pink beads (I made mind from a kit)
small bit of light pink felt or cloth to make flower pin on jacket
fabric glue (to glue hair band)

**If you are making the Doctor also, get small strong magnets. Place inside hand of each doll, and you can make them appear to hold hands! >:-D

Some materials used in the original doll:
Berroco Touché in pink, TLC in cornmeal and denim. .58 mm/24 gauge galvanized steel wire.

TECHNIQUES
magic adjustable ring
seaming (whip stitch is ok)
basic embroidery stitches (stem stitch, satin stitch, backstitch, french knot)
changing yarn colors within a round (shoes)
puff stitch (shoes, instructions given)

Tutorials
For magic ring tutorial
http://www.planetjune.com/blog/tutorials/

Photos from official BBC galleries for Rose Tyler and The Idiot’s Lantern:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/doctorwho/gallery/s2_07gallery/index.shtml
Rose’s new look 800px 1024px
Coronation street 800px 1024px
Rose and the Doctor 800px 1024px
Style icons 800px 1024px

Screencaps from this episode at doctorwho.time-and-space.co.uk are also very helpful.


PATTERN NOTES:
I'd appreciate it if you let me know if you find errors.

Please do not sell pattern or product you make from pattern, or derivative works without permission. I spent many days designing it.

The pattern using American crochet terms. For you folks in the UK or Australia, the instructions are different.

Body is 4 parts: torso, 2 legs, 2 arms
Head is 3 parts: head, hair cap, hair strands
Skirt is single part.
Jacket is 4 parts: 2 sleeves, back with 2 fronts, lapels

BODY
TORSO
Torso starts off with hosiery in heather gray, then pink top.
1. WITH GRAY YARN, sc 5.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 5. 10 sts.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 5. 15 sts.
4. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 5. 20 sts.
5. (Sc into each next 3 sts, 2 sts into next st) x 5. 25 sts
6. Sc around.
7-8. SWITCH TO PINK YARN. Sc around.
9. (Sc into each next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 5. 20 sts. This decrease round gives the doll a waistline.
10. Sc around.
11. (Sc in each next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 5. 25 sts.
Rounds 12-13 are bust shaping.
12. Sc into each of next 8 sts, sc and hdc into next st, 2 hdc into next st, hdc and sc into next st, sc3tog, sc and hdc into next st, 2 hdc into next st, hdc and sc into next st, sc into each of next 8 sts. 29 sts.
13. Sc into each of next 8 sts, sc2tog, hdc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, hdc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog, sc into each of next 8 sts. 25 sts.
14. Sc around. 25 sts.
15. Switch to cream. In back loops only, (Sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 5. 20 sts.
16. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 5. 15 sts.
17. Stuff torso. Add weighting material to bottom of torso, if desired. (Sc into next st, sc2tog) x 2, sc. With cream, sc2tog, sc. Switching back to pink, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog. 10 sts.

Hide yarn tails.


HAND AND ARM - MAKE 2
Work in rounds using CREAM yarn (skin color).
1. Sc 4.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 4. 8 sts.
3. Sc around. Stuff hand and put in small magnet/metal piece, if desired.
4. (Sc2tog) x 4. 4 sts.
5. (2 sc into next st) x 4. 8 sts.
6-7. Sc around for 2 rounds.
Switch to BLUE yarn:
8. Sc around.
9. In back loops only, sc around
10-12. Sc around.
13. Turn, ch 1, sc 6. Turn.
14. Sk 1, sc 4. Turn.
15. Sk 1, sc 2. Turn.
16. Sk 1, sc 1.

Leave a few inches of yarn for sewing later. Stuff arm.

HAND EMBELLISHMENT: With yarn needle and pink yarn, embroider french knot on Rose’s left hand for pink “ring.”

FEET AND LEGS - MAKE 2
Work in rounds using PINK yarn, unless GRAY is specified. Rounds 1-6 are shoe shaping, 7-18 are trousers/tights. Switching colors on a round: when you return to using the other color, carry the unused yarn loosely behind the work so the shoe does not get “squinched.”

1. Sc 5.
2. 2 sc in first st, hdc in next st, 3 dc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 sc in last st. 9 st.
3. 2 sc in first st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
4. 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 2 st, sc next st in GRAY, sc2tog in GRAY, sc2tog (first sc is GRAY, second sc is PINK), sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
5. Sc in first st, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc in each of the next 4 sts in GRAY, sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in last st. 10 sts.
6. Sc2tog, sc next st, sc in each of the next 5 sts in GRAY, sc2tog in GRAY. 8 sts. Stuff shoe.
FROM NOW ON, USE GRAY ALONE.
7-18. 8 sts.

Leave a few inches of yarn for sewing later. Stuff leg.

SHOE EMBELLISHMENT
With pink yarn (you can separate out 3-4 plies to thread the needle) and embroidery needle, make stem stitches around the rim of the pink shoe where it meets the gray stocking. This neatens the edge.

On outside rim of shoe, near toe, stitch a ribbon bow shape.

Make a puff stitch for the high heel:
1. Chain 3, insert hook in 3rd stitch from hook.
2. YO, pull up a loop.
3. * Yo over the hook, insert hook back into the same 3rd st.
4. YO, pull up a loop.
5. Repeat from * once more.
6. YO, and pull through all loops on the hook.
Finish off leaving yarn tail.
With yarn tail and yarn needle, sew puff stitch to shoe.

Repeat finishing for other shoe.


BODY FINISHING
Stuff arms. Pinching the open end flat, sew arm to side of torso. This crease makes the shoulder joint more floppy and moveable. Repeat for other arm.

Stuff legs. Pinching the open end flat, sew leg slightly toward the front at the bottom of torso. This position makes it easier to make the doll sit. Repeat for other leg.

Hide yarn tails.

SKIRT
Use PINK yarn, work in rounds. Use stitch marker to mark beginning of rounds. After a few rounds, try the skirt on the torso of the doll to make sure that it fits. The waist should fit around the waist of the torso and the hemline should be above the feet.

Ch 24. Taking care not to twist chain, join chain with sl st to form circle.
1. Ch 1, sc 24. Turn. 24 sts.
2. (Sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) x 6. 30 sts.
3. (Sc in each of the next 4 sts, 3 sc in next st) x 6. 42 sts.
4. Sc around. 42 sts.
5. (Sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) x 6. 48 sts.
6. Sc around. 48 sts.
7. (Sc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st) x 6. 54 sts.
8-9. Sc around 54 sts.
10. (Sc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st) x 6. 60 sts.

In the last or one of the final rounds, crochet around the thin piece of wire as you work the stitches. Loop and flatten the ends of the wire so that they are smooth and not poky.

11-12. Sc around. 60 sts.
13. (Sc in each of the next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st) x 6. 66 sts.

SKIRT FINISHING
Put skirt on doll body. With wrong side of skirt facing, sew waist of skirt to the waist of the body.
Manipulate the wire and the skirt folds so it looks like the skirt has pleats.

JACKET
Use blue yarn for all sections. Leave a few inches of yarn tails for sewing up later. Slip st at end of decrease rows makes the slant look smoother. Make sure when you turn you are NOT making the first sc into the sl st of the previous row. “Left front” and “right front” are from the jacket wearer’s POV.

BACK

Begin base section
Chain 27.
1. (WS) Skip 1 ch, sc 26. Turn. 26 sts.
2-4. Ch 1, sc 26. Turn. 26 sts.
5. Sk 1, sc 24, sl st. Turn. 24 sts.
6. Ch 1, sc 24. Turn.

Begin left front section
7. (WS) Ch 1, sc 6. Turn.
8. Ch 1, sc 5, sl st. Turn.
9. Ch 1, sc 4, sl st. Turn.
10. Ch 1, sc 3, sl st. Turn.
11. Ch 1, sc 2, sl st. Turn.
12. Ch 1, sc 1.
Cut yarn. Insert hook into next st, yo, pull through st and loop on hook.


Begin middle upper back section
(WS) Return to 7th row in left front section. Find 6th sc made. Skip 1 st to the left, join yarn in next st.
7. Ch 1, sc 10, sl st. Turn.
8. Ch 1, sc 9, sl st. Turn.
9. Ch 1, sc 8, sl st. Turn.
10. Ch 1, sc 7.
Cut yarn. Pull through loop on hook.

Begin right front section
(WS) On 7th row, find 10 st in back section. Skip 1 st to the left, join yarn in next st.
7. Ch 1, sc 6. Turn.
8. Ch 1. sc 5, sl st. Turn.
9. Ch 1, sc 4, sl st. Turn.
10. Ch 1, sc 3, sl st. Turn.
11. Ch 1, sc 2, sl st. Turn.
12. Ch 1, sc 1.
Cut yarn. Insert hook into next st, yo, pull through st and loop on hook.



JACKET FINISHING
Sew right arm between right front and back. Repeat for left front.
Sew side seam of right front and back. Repeat for left front.
Flip front edges over to create “lapels.” Sew in place.
Join yarn at top of a lapel. RS facing, sc around shoulder, in front loops of the back section, opposite shoulder, and join to top of opposite lapel.
Optionally, do a row of sc around shoulders and back.
Weave in yarn tails.

JACKET EMBELLISHMENT
From pink felt or cloth, cut a 5-petaled flower. Sew to left front of jacket or keep in place with an embroidered french knot in the center.


HEAD
Work in rounds using cream yarn. This is an egg shaped head, beginning at the narrower end. The narrow end is the “neck.”

1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc in next st) x 6. 12 st.
3. Sc around.
4. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 18 sts.
5. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
6-11. Sc around.
Start decreasing rounds. Stuff before hole gets too small.
12. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 18 sts.
13. (Sc into next st, sc2tog) x 6. 12 sts.
14. (Sc2tog) x 6. 6 sts.

Stuff head.

EAR - MAKE 2
In adjustable loop, sc 3. Sew ears on sides of head.


HAIR
This cap may not fit the head exactly, depending on what yarn you are using, so vary as necessary.
Work in rounds using yellow yarn, starting with magic loop. Refer to pictures in Rose Tyler 50s hair photoset here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/12928926@N06/sets/72157605759222508/

Hair cap
1. Sc 5.
2. (2 sc into each st) x 5. 10 sts.
3. (Sc in next st in the back loop, 2 sc in next st in the back loop) x 5. 15 sts.
4. (Sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) x 5. 20 sts.
5. (Sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) x 4. Slip stitch into next 4 sts.
6. (Sc into each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 3. Sc 3. Slip stitch into back loop of next 8 stitches.

7. Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 8 sts. 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts. Slip st in next st. Break yarn, pull tail through loop on hook.

With yellow yarn, whip stitch cap onto head. The edge with the slip stitches fits over the forehead. See photos for placement.

Hair Stitching
Thread yarn needle with long length of yellow yarn. (Keep rethreading as you run out of yarn.) Starting from the lower edge of the cap closest to the back of neck, make horizontal satin stitches from the center back of head around to the sides of the face. See photos for direction. A vertical part will appear down the back of the head where the stitches on the left and right meet.
Make diagonal and vertical satin stitches from the rear crown to the front crown ending above forehead, stopping 1/8” before the edge of the hair cap. As the stitches all meet at the same point on the back of the head and bunch up, a hive like shape will form on the head.

Hair Strands
Just around the forehead is exposed hair cap without any stitching on it.
Thread yarn needle with long length of yellow yarn. Again, keep rethreading as you run out of yarn.

Note or mark with pin the point of Rose’s part on the on the left front of her forehead. You will make loop stitches on either side of this point. See photos for reference.

Make backstitches along the edge of the hair cap, framing the face. Instead of pulling the backstitches tight, leave long 5” long loops (10” total length). I made 5 loops on either side of the “part”.
Cut the loops at the bottom and trim hair.

Hair Bun
Use yellow yarn. With magic loop, sc 4.
1) Sc 4 and finish off.
With long strand of yarn threaded through yarn needle, make stitches to cover the bun with "hair". Sew the bun to the back of the head, near neck.

HEAD FINISHING
Hide yarn tails. Use cream yarn to sew neck to Torso.

Hair band
With pink, make a chain that will go over head from behind one ear to the other. Sk 1 ch and sc into each chain. Finish off. Sew or glue with fabric glue to head.

Earrings Embellishment
With very small clear pink beads and findings, make two “fishhook” earrings and insert into ears.


FACE
Oh, no!! The Wire took Rose’s face! It is up to you to put it back.

Use embroidery needle and 3 strands of cotton floss, knotted at the end and brought up to the face through the center hole at the bottom of the neck. Satin stitch facial features. Using brown floss, stitch eyes and eyebrows. Using pink floss, stitch mouth.

With blusher brush, gently dab tiny bit of pink blush on Rose’s cheeks. Isn’t she so pretty now? :D Little miss charming.
Tags: doctor who, finished object, patterns
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  • Comics crossover: Star Trek Next Generation + Doctor Who

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