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Crochet whale pattern notes

And now, by popular request (maybe 3 peoples)-- my English translation notes on the Pierrot whale pattern! See this previous post if you want to know what materials I used and see additional photos. Here is direct link to the pdf. And here is a link to an @Nifty translated to English webpage.   ETA 10/28/09: A tip: If you want to translate the pattern's webpage to English language, try @Nifty. Paste the URL for the pattern into the small box, click the bottom radio button 日本語から英語, then the bigger button below that one.


Yarn...Yuttari soft acrylic (about worsted weight)
Main color - black (col. 93) about 80 grams
Water spray color - light blue (col. 84) small amount

(Notions/other materials)...
Japanese crochet hook size 7/0 = U.S. size G, 4.0 mm
??? 20 cm
white and black felt for the eyes and mouth

Gauge (over 10 cm)... 15 stitches and 15 rows in single crochet
??? see picture

You'll also need stuffing, fabric glue for the felt pieces, a gray marker to draw the teeth on the white felt mouth, and wire for the water spray.

Whale is about 30 cm long including tail.


For each body part there is a table. Notice that the crochet rounds start at the bottom row of the table. The +/- symbol before a number in parentheses is the number of stitches that you will increase/decrease in that round.

Row (round) numberStitches number
212 (+6 stitches)

The charts have circled numbers to mark the beginning of each round. Read the charts counter-clockwise starting from the number, just as you are crocheting counter-clockwise round the circle.

X = single crochet.
V= sc 2 in the same stitch to increase
inverted V (sometimes slanted) = sc 2 stitches together to decrease
0 = chain stitch
A black dot probably indicates that at the end of a round, you make a slip stitch into the beginning chain stitch of the round.

Snuffykin says: It looks better if you don't join rounds with a slip stitch and chain stitch, and just crochet in spiral.


BODY (1 piece)
Work in rounds using main color black. To save space, the pattern designer didn't chart out full rounds after round 4. So for all remaining rounds 5 through 42, you repeat whatever sequence of stitches is given a total of 6 times each round. For example, round 5 reads V XXX 0 (5). This translates to: (3 sc, 2 sc inc) x 6.

If you are going to use plastic eyes instead of felt eyes, insert them after crocheting the head part. Keep stuffing as you go along.

SIDE FIN (2 pieces)
Work in rounds using main color black. From the chart, you can see the fin is divided in three sections and the dashed lines point to which part of the chart you should follow for the section. The increases and decreases are uneven, giving the fin a flat shape, so pay attention. You should probably ignore the table - it'll just confuse you.

TAIL FIN (2 pieces)
Work FLAT using main color black. Connect flat fins by crocheting all around the edges through both pieces at the same time. Example single crochet stitches are shown the right edge of the chart, starting at the bottom right corner. When you crochet around the bottom left corner, STOP. Leave an opening and leave length of yarn for sewing to body.


Make sure to stuff the tail, then sew it to the whale body.

Sew tail fins to body using picture guide.

Cut white felt circle for eye 2.2cm wide. Cut black felt for eye pupil slightly smaller and glue to white circle. Glue eye on whale.

Cut white felt for mouth 18 cm wide, 1.8 cm high. Draw teeth with gray marker. Glue mouth on whale.

Cut and bend wire so that 5 cm is poking out of the blowhole, and the spray is 3 cm long bending outward. Glue and wrap with blue yarn.


( 12 comments — Leave a comment )
Mar. 18th, 2009 05:50 pm (UTC)
I found this pattern and then the website it was on and have about 15 of their patterns (I'm a whore for amigurumi apparantly!). Thank you so much for posting this! I'll be able to tell when I get it right now LOL

Also, you're Japanese->English hook info has become invaluable to me - i just bought those very awesome Hamanaka Rakuraku double ended hooks and they have the sizes printed on them but it's the Japanese system which leaves me scratching my head! :)

You're very awesome - as always :)
Oct. 27th, 2009 12:58 pm (UTC)
I found your posting ont he whale patterna dn the links don't work anymore. You don't happen to still have the english version, do you?

Oct. 27th, 2009 03:03 pm (UTC)
Re: Whale
There is no English version of the pattern. It is in Japanese. I edited the post to include a link to the @Nifty website which translates the pattern's webpage to English, however.
Jan. 4th, 2010 01:17 am (UTC)
thank you so much for your help with translating the japanese whale pattern. i have been crocheting and experimenting with amigurumi for a long time but have just recently begun to explore japanese patterns. i have no knowledge of japanese whatsoever and was wondering if you had any english notes for the seagull pattern. it is so adorable and i really want to make it... i have printed the japanese pattern but am having great difficulty following it!
Jan. 4th, 2010 06:53 am (UTC)
I don't have any particular notes for the seagull. You may find it easier to follow the numbers in the table rather than looking at the symbol crochet diagram. The left column is the round #, starting from round 1 and going to round 15. The right column is the total number of single crochets made in that round. The parentheses shows how many stitches to increase (or decrease) evenly in the round.

So in round 1, you start with a magic loop and sc 6. In Round 2, you increase 6 sts more sts and end up with 12 at the end of that round.

The wing isn't in a table, only in a symbol diagram. It's just one round, working back across chain 6, and then around on the other side of each chain. x is sc, T is half double, the double T is double crochet.

ps, I'm writing American crochet terms not UK/Aus.
Jan. 4th, 2010 11:24 am (UTC)
thank you, i will definitely give it a try. i translated a bit of the japanese this morning and it seems that it is more like a set of notes rather than directions - can't wait to give it a try! your whale is so much cuter than the one on the website :) do you use a lot of japanese amigurumi patterns? i was wondering if you knew of any sites that have free patterns that i could browse. i have looked on google but have not come up with much - it mostly gives me sites that are for "japanese amigurumi" but are in english.
Jan. 5th, 2010 04:01 am (UTC)
I like Japanese patterns ! It give me a chance to work on my sleuthing skills to translate them. I prefer reading tables and crochet symbols than written out text too.

Here are some patterns I bookmarked:

And here is help with translating:

There are probably more, but I haven't done much scouring the internet lately for them.

Haaave fuuuun!
Feb. 16th, 2011 05:07 am (UTC)
Hey can I ask how to use the link and where the pattern is? I really love whales and would love to make one for my friend!
Apr. 10th, 2012 03:18 pm (UTC)
I have never tried japanese charts, but looking closely is not that difficult! At least the body of the whale, because I don't get how the tail is done. How do you make the separation?
Apr. 11th, 2012 06:25 am (UTC)
Hello. You make two identical pieces for the tail. They are heart-shaped, sort of. <3 Then you lay one piece on top of the other. You crochet the two pieces together by single crocheting around the edges, inserting the hook through both pieces at the same time as you make each stitch. You leave one end open of the tail (like a pocket), insert a bit of stuffing into the tail pocket, then sew the tail piece to the body.
Apr. 11th, 2012 03:50 pm (UTC)
No, no, I got that. I mean the heart shape, how do you make the separation at some point.
Apr. 12th, 2012 04:04 am (UTC)
Oh, you mean the left and right split. Ok, when you get to row 7 (it's marked with a number 7 in a circle and arrow on the diagram), you make 5 sc across for the right side of the tail. Then you can join a SECOND strand of yarn (such as the tail of your yarn ball) and continue across the piece to start the left side of the tail (this new row is marked with a new number 1 in a circle and arrow on the diagram).

At this point you could work on either right or left part one at a time. For example, you can then turn your work to the WS and continue working the left side, turning when you get to the end of each row.

Or you could work each row going across both sides while picking and dropping the left or right strand as needed. You might want to turn your work to the WS, continue working to the end of the left side row. Then you drop the 2nd yarn strand, pick up the 1st yarn strand, and continue working to the end of the right side row.

( 12 comments — Leave a comment )

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