Finally done! Yes, it's Christopher Eccleston as the 9th Doctor Who from the BBC television series (2005). This doll, crocheted in vaguely amigurumi style, was inspired by the drawings of chibi Doctors at
whooligan and the fan comic
whenthedocsmeet . That accounts for his sorta out-of-proportion features and cuteness.
For more (ahem, amazing detailed) photos, go to my Flickr page here. I hope you enjoy looking at this doll/plushie/softie, and make your own. I would love to see pictures of your completed projects.
This is the first time I ever designed a amigurumi, after following a few patterns which were far simpler. In order of difficulty, the shaping of the legs, head, and coat were very trying to design. Much trial, much error. Added note - My only regret is that I could not incorporate Mr. Eccleston's lovely nose.
Cross-posted to
nine_love ,
crafty_tardis ,
whooligan ,
who_knits ,
weloveamigurumi
9th Doctor Who amigurumi doll
by Snuffykin, September 2007
This is an intermediate-experienced crochet project, because of the large number of parts and techniques. The doll is 9-10" tall.
For my photos, see http://www.flickr.com/photos/12928926@N0 6/sets/72157601961840788/
--------------
Materials
worsted weight yarn
black (shoes, trousers, coat)
dark red (jumper color)
cream (skin color)
dark brown (hair color)
small amounts of thin yarn or floss: blue (eyes), dark brown (brows), light pink (mouth)
yarn needle
long embroidery needle
crochet hook F
stuffing
optional:
weighted material like poly-pellets for torso
**If you are making Rose also, get a small strong magnet and piece of metal that sticks to it. Place inside hand of each doll, and you can make them appear to hold hands! >:-D
Techniques
magic adjustable ring
seaming (whipstitch is ok)
basic embroidery stitches (head)
changing yarn colors within a round (jumper)
Tutorials
For magic ring tutorial
http://www.planetjune.com/blog/tutorials/
For hair tutorial
http://owly.wordpress.com/2007/08/27/ami gurumi-hair-tutorial/
Official BBC photo gallery (reference for hairstyle):
http://www.bbc.co.uk/doctorwho/gallery/d octor9/index.shtml
--------------
Pattern Notes
This pattern has not been tested; I'd appreciate it you let me know if you find errors so that I can make corrections here.
Please do not sell pattern or product you make from pattern, or derivative works. Thank you. :-)
Pattern is divided into 3 sections: Body, Coat, and Head. Make the Body first, then you can adjust the Coat size as needed. Magic adjustable ring on all parts worked in rounds, except on sleeves. The pattern using American crochet terms. For you folks in the UK or Australia, the instructions are different.
Body is 4 parts: torso, 2 legs, 2 arms
Head is 4 parts: head, ears, hair cap, hair overstitching.
Coat is 7 parts: 2 sleeves, back, right and left fronts, right and left lapels
Suggested details you may want to add: “buttons” on coat, screwdriver, sparkly blue beads for eyes.
BODY
TORSO
Work in rounds using black yarn.
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 6. 12 sts.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc next st) x 6. 18 sc.
4. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sc.
5. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 30 sc.
6 - 8. Sc around.
Switch to dark red yarn (jumper color).
9. Through front loops only, sc around.
10 - 16. Sc around.
Begin to stuff torso before opening gets small. Add weighting material to bottom of torso, if desired. Read entirely through steps 17-19. You will need to switch from the jumper color to skin color, and back again the the jumper color.
17. (Sc into each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 6. AT THE SAME TIME: After 12th st, sc into next st with cream yarn. With dark red yarn, finish round. 24 sts.
18. (Sc into each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 6. AT THE SAME TIME: With cream, sc into the cream st from previous round and into the next st. With dark red yarn, finish round. 18 sts.
19. (Sc into each of the next st, sc2tog) x 6. AT THE SAME TIME: In cream, sc in the cream st from the previous round and into the next st. With dark red yarn, finish round. 12 sts.
HAND AND ARM - MAKE 2
Work in rounds using cream yarn (skin color).
1. Sc 4.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 4. 8 sc.
3-4. Sc around. Stuff hand and put in small magnet/metal piece, if desired.
5. (Sc2tog) x 4. 4 sc.
Switch to dark red yarn (jumper color):
6. (2 sc into next st) x 4. 8 sc.
7-8. In back loops only, sc around.
9-17. Sc around.
Leave a few inches of yarn tail for sewing up later. Stuff arm.
FEET AND LEGS - MAKE 2
Work in rounds using black yarn. Rounds 1-7 are shoe shaping, 8-21 are trousers.
1. Sc 5.
2. 2 sc in first st, hdc in next st, 3 dc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 sc in last st. 9 st.
3. 2 sc in first st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
4. 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 st, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
5. Sc in first st, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st. 10 sts.
6. Sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog. 9 sts.
7. Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 7 sts. 8 sts. Stuff shoe.
8. Through front loops only, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) x 4. 12 sts.
9. Through back loops only, sc around. 12 sts
10. Sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog. 10 sts.
11-21. Sc around. 10 sts. 11 rounds total.
Leave a few inches of yarn tail for sewing up later. Stuff leg.
BODY FINISHING
Stuff arms. Pinching the open end flat, sew arm to side of torso. This crease makes the shoulder joint more floppy and moveable. Repeat for other arm.
Stuff legs. Pinching the open end flat, sew leg slightly toward the front at the bottom of torso. This position makes it easier to make the doll sit. Repeat for other leg.
Hide yarn tails.
HEAD
Work in rounds using cream yarn. This is an egg shaped head, beginning at the narrower end. The narrow end is the “neck.” Doing it this way does make it more tricky to do the embroidery on the face later, but it makes the head look nicer -- the decreases at the top are ugly and completely covered by the hair cap.
Sc 6.
1. (2 sc in next st) x 6. 12 st.
2. Sc around.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 18 sts.
4. Sc around.
5. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
6. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 30 sts.
7-13. Sc around.
Start decreasing rounds, and stuff before head opening gets too small.
14. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 24 sts.
15. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 18 sts.
16. (Sc into next st, sc2tog) x 6. 12 sts.
At this point, you may want to jump ahead to the Finishing and embroider the face.
EAR - MAKE 2
In adjustable loop, hdc 3, sc 2.
HAIR
You'll be making a hair cap first and then stitching hair strands over it. You may have to make adjustments to suit your gauge and yarn. Use photos as reference guides.
Work in rounds using dark brown yarn.
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 6. 12 sts.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 18 sts.
4. (Sc into each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
5. (Sc into each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 30 sts.
6-9. Sc around.
Work in rows for the three "tongues."
Middle Tongue
10. Sc 8, turn.
11. Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 4, sc2tog, turn. 6 sts.
12. Ch 1, sc2 tog, sc 4, turn. 5 sts.
13. Ch 1, sc2 tog, sc 3., turn. 4 sts.
14. Ch 1, (sc2tog) x 2. Cut yarn, finish off.
Left side tongue
15. WS facing and middle tongue at 12 o' clock position, join yarn to 4th st to theleft right of row 10’s edge (8th st).
16. Sc, hdc, dc, trc. Cut yarn, finish off.
Right side tongue
17. RS facing and middle tongue at 12 o'clock position, join yarn to 4th st to the right of row 10’s edge (1st st).
18. Sc, hdc, dc, trc. Cut yarn, finish off.
Position ears and hair cap. Sew ears on either side of head first. Sew hair cap, pulling side tongues above ears and middle tongue above forehead.
Use satin stitch over Cap surface, creating hair lines. See tutorial referred to at beginning of this pattern.
HEAD FINISHING
Make a face! Using blue floss, stitch eyes. Using light pink floss, stitch mouth. Using brown floss, stitch eyebrows. This is a bit tricky, since you have to run the floss through the center hold at the bottom of the Head.
Use cream and dark red yarn to sew head to Torso.
Hide yarn tails.
COAT
Use black yarn for all parts. Work in rows except for Sleeves. Leave a few inches of yarn tails for sewing up later.
BACK
Chain 17.
1. Skip 1 ch, 16 sc. Turn.
2. Ch 1, in back loops only 16 sc. Turn.
3-7. Ch 1, sc 16 . Turn.
8. Ch 1, in back loops only 16 sc for “belt.” Turn.
9-12. ch 1, sc 16. Turn.
13. Ch 1, sc 15. Turn.
14. Ch 1, sc 14. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 13. Turn.
16. Ch 1, sc 12. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 11. Turn.
18-19. Ch 1, sc 10.
RIGHT FRONT
Chain 9.
1. Skip 1 ch, sc 8. Turn.
2. If on RS, ch 1 and in back loops, sc 8. - OR - If on WS, ch 1 and in front loops, sc 8.
3 -13. Ch 1, sc 8. Turn.
14. Ch 1, sc 7. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 6. Turn.
16. Ch 1, sc 5. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 4. Turn.
18. Ch 1, sc 3. Turn.
19- 21. Ch 1, sc 2.
LEFT FRONT
The left front is slightly wider than the right front, so that it can overlap a bit.
Chain 11.
1. Skip 1 ch, sc 10. Turn.
2. If on RS, ch 1 and in back loops, sc 10. - OR - If on WS, ch 1, and in front loops, sc 10.
3 - 9. Ch 1, sc 10. Turn.
10 - 11. Ch 1, sc 9. Turn.
12 - 13. Ch 1, sc 8. Turn.
14. Ch 1, sc 7. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 6. Turn.
16. Ch 1, sc 5. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 4. Turn.
18. Ch 1, sc 3. Turn.
19 - 21. Ch 1, sc 2.
SLEEVE - MAKE 2
Work in rounds. Do not use magic adjustable ring here. Don't forget to leave a few inches of yarn tail for sewing up later.
Using black yarn, ch 8-10 and join into ring.
1. Sc 12 into ring.
2. Sc 12 into back loops only.
3-14. Sc around.
COAT FINISHING
On flat parts, RS will appear to have line along 2nd row edge.
Sew shoulder seam of right front to back. Repeat for left front.
Sew right sleeve between right front and back. Repeat for left front.
Sew side seam of right front and back. Repeat for left front.
Along top edge of right front, use a combination of dc, hdc and sc to create “lapel” in black yarn. Repeat for left front.
Weave in yarn tails.

![]() | ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
This is the first time I ever designed a amigurumi, after following a few patterns which were far simpler. In order of difficulty, the shaping of the legs, head, and coat were very trying to design. Much trial, much error. Added note - My only regret is that I could not incorporate Mr. Eccleston's lovely nose.
Cross-posted to
9th Doctor Who amigurumi doll
by Snuffykin, September 2007
This is an intermediate-experienced crochet project, because of the large number of parts and techniques. The doll is 9-10" tall.
For my photos, see http://www.flickr.com/photos/12928926@N0
--------------
Materials
worsted weight yarn
black (shoes, trousers, coat)
dark red (jumper color)
cream (skin color)
dark brown (hair color)
small amounts of thin yarn or floss: blue (eyes), dark brown (brows), light pink (mouth)
yarn needle
long embroidery needle
crochet hook F
stuffing
optional:
weighted material like poly-pellets for torso
**If you are making Rose also, get a small strong magnet and piece of metal that sticks to it. Place inside hand of each doll, and you can make them appear to hold hands! >:-D
Techniques
magic adjustable ring
seaming (whipstitch is ok)
basic embroidery stitches (head)
changing yarn colors within a round (jumper)
Tutorials
For magic ring tutorial
http://www.planetjune.com/blog/tutorials/
For hair tutorial
http://owly.wordpress.com/2007/08/27/ami
Official BBC photo gallery (reference for hairstyle):
http://www.bbc.co.uk/doctorwho/gallery/d
--------------
Pattern Notes
This pattern has not been tested; I'd appreciate it you let me know if you find errors so that I can make corrections here.
Please do not sell pattern or product you make from pattern, or derivative works. Thank you. :-)
Pattern is divided into 3 sections: Body, Coat, and Head. Make the Body first, then you can adjust the Coat size as needed. Magic adjustable ring on all parts worked in rounds, except on sleeves. The pattern using American crochet terms. For you folks in the UK or Australia, the instructions are different.
Body is 4 parts: torso, 2 legs, 2 arms
Head is 4 parts: head, ears, hair cap, hair overstitching.
Coat is 7 parts: 2 sleeves, back, right and left fronts, right and left lapels
Suggested details you may want to add: “buttons” on coat, screwdriver, sparkly blue beads for eyes.
BODY
TORSO
Work in rounds using black yarn.
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 6. 12 sts.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc next st) x 6. 18 sc.
4. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sc.
5. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 30 sc.
6 - 8. Sc around.
Switch to dark red yarn (jumper color).
9. Through front loops only, sc around.
10 - 16. Sc around.
Begin to stuff torso before opening gets small. Add weighting material to bottom of torso, if desired. Read entirely through steps 17-19. You will need to switch from the jumper color to skin color, and back again the the jumper color.
17. (Sc into each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 6. AT THE SAME TIME: After 12th st, sc into next st with cream yarn. With dark red yarn, finish round. 24 sts.
18. (Sc into each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 6. AT THE SAME TIME: With cream, sc into the cream st from previous round and into the next st. With dark red yarn, finish round. 18 sts.
19. (Sc into each of the next st, sc2tog) x 6. AT THE SAME TIME: In cream, sc in the cream st from the previous round and into the next st. With dark red yarn, finish round. 12 sts.
HAND AND ARM - MAKE 2
Work in rounds using cream yarn (skin color).
1. Sc 4.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 4. 8 sc.
3-4. Sc around. Stuff hand and put in small magnet/metal piece, if desired.
5. (Sc2tog) x 4. 4 sc.
Switch to dark red yarn (jumper color):
6. (2 sc into next st) x 4. 8 sc.
7-8. In back loops only, sc around.
9-17. Sc around.
Leave a few inches of yarn tail for sewing up later. Stuff arm.
FEET AND LEGS - MAKE 2
Work in rounds using black yarn. Rounds 1-7 are shoe shaping, 8-21 are trousers.
1. Sc 5.
2. 2 sc in first st, hdc in next st, 3 dc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 sc in last st. 9 st.
3. 2 sc in first st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
4. 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 st, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
5. Sc in first st, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st. 10 sts.
6. Sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog. 9 sts.
7. Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 7 sts. 8 sts. Stuff shoe.
8. Through front loops only, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) x 4. 12 sts.
9. Through back loops only, sc around. 12 sts
10. Sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog. 10 sts.
11-21. Sc around. 10 sts. 11 rounds total.
Leave a few inches of yarn tail for sewing up later. Stuff leg.
BODY FINISHING
Stuff arms. Pinching the open end flat, sew arm to side of torso. This crease makes the shoulder joint more floppy and moveable. Repeat for other arm.
Stuff legs. Pinching the open end flat, sew leg slightly toward the front at the bottom of torso. This position makes it easier to make the doll sit. Repeat for other leg.
Hide yarn tails.
HEAD
Work in rounds using cream yarn. This is an egg shaped head, beginning at the narrower end. The narrow end is the “neck.” Doing it this way does make it more tricky to do the embroidery on the face later, but it makes the head look nicer -- the decreases at the top are ugly and completely covered by the hair cap.
Sc 6.
1. (2 sc in next st) x 6. 12 st.
2. Sc around.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 18 sts.
4. Sc around.
5. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
6. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 30 sts.
7-13. Sc around.
Start decreasing rounds, and stuff before head opening gets too small.
14. (Sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 24 sts.
15. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 6. 18 sts.
16. (Sc into next st, sc2tog) x 6. 12 sts.
At this point, you may want to jump ahead to the Finishing and embroider the face.
EAR - MAKE 2
In adjustable loop, hdc 3, sc 2.
HAIR
You'll be making a hair cap first and then stitching hair strands over it. You may have to make adjustments to suit your gauge and yarn. Use photos as reference guides.
Work in rounds using dark brown yarn.
1. Sc 6.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 6. 12 sts.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 18 sts.
4. (Sc into each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 24 sts.
5. (Sc into each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 6. 30 sts.
6-9. Sc around.
Work in rows for the three "tongues."
Middle Tongue
10. Sc 8, turn.
11. Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 4, sc2tog, turn. 6 sts.
12. Ch 1, sc2 tog, sc 4, turn. 5 sts.
13. Ch 1, sc2 tog, sc 3., turn. 4 sts.
14. Ch 1, (sc2tog) x 2. Cut yarn, finish off.
Left side tongue
15. WS facing and middle tongue at 12 o' clock position, join yarn to 4th st to the
16. Sc, hdc, dc, trc. Cut yarn, finish off.
Right side tongue
17. RS facing and middle tongue at 12 o'clock position, join yarn to 4th st to the right of row 10’s edge (1st st).
18. Sc, hdc, dc, trc. Cut yarn, finish off.
Position ears and hair cap. Sew ears on either side of head first. Sew hair cap, pulling side tongues above ears and middle tongue above forehead.
Use satin stitch over Cap surface, creating hair lines. See tutorial referred to at beginning of this pattern.
HEAD FINISHING
Make a face! Using blue floss, stitch eyes. Using light pink floss, stitch mouth. Using brown floss, stitch eyebrows. This is a bit tricky, since you have to run the floss through the center hold at the bottom of the Head.
Use cream and dark red yarn to sew head to Torso.
Hide yarn tails.
COAT
Use black yarn for all parts. Work in rows except for Sleeves. Leave a few inches of yarn tails for sewing up later.
BACK
Chain 17.
1. Skip 1 ch, 16 sc. Turn.
2. Ch 1, in back loops only 16 sc. Turn.
3-7. Ch 1, sc 16 . Turn.
8. Ch 1, in back loops only 16 sc for “belt.” Turn.
9-12. ch 1, sc 16. Turn.
13. Ch 1, sc 15. Turn.
14. Ch 1, sc 14. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 13. Turn.
16. Ch 1, sc 12. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 11. Turn.
18-19. Ch 1, sc 10.
RIGHT FRONT
Chain 9.
1. Skip 1 ch, sc 8. Turn.
2. If on RS, ch 1 and in back loops, sc 8. - OR - If on WS, ch 1 and in front loops, sc 8.
3 -13. Ch 1, sc 8. Turn.
14. Ch 1, sc 7. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 6. Turn.
16. Ch 1, sc 5. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 4. Turn.
18. Ch 1, sc 3. Turn.
19- 21. Ch 1, sc 2.
LEFT FRONT
The left front is slightly wider than the right front, so that it can overlap a bit.
Chain 11.
1. Skip 1 ch, sc 10. Turn.
2. If on RS, ch 1 and in back loops, sc 10. - OR - If on WS, ch 1, and in front loops, sc 10.
3 - 9. Ch 1, sc 10. Turn.
10 - 11. Ch 1, sc 9. Turn.
12 - 13. Ch 1, sc 8. Turn.
14. Ch 1, sc 7. Turn.
15. Ch 1, sc 6. Turn.
16. Ch 1, sc 5. Turn.
17. Ch 1, sc 4. Turn.
18. Ch 1, sc 3. Turn.
19 - 21. Ch 1, sc 2.
SLEEVE - MAKE 2
Work in rounds. Do not use magic adjustable ring here. Don't forget to leave a few inches of yarn tail for sewing up later.
Using black yarn, ch 8-10 and join into ring.
1. Sc 12 into ring.
2. Sc 12 into back loops only.
3-14. Sc around.
COAT FINISHING
On flat parts, RS will appear to have line along 2nd row edge.
Sew shoulder seam of right front to back. Repeat for left front.
Sew right sleeve between right front and back. Repeat for left front.
Sew side seam of right front and back. Repeat for left front.
Along top edge of right front, use a combination of dc, hdc and sc to create “lapel” in black yarn. Repeat for left front.
Weave in yarn tails.
- Mood:
accomplished






Comments
Thank you so much for the pattern! I can't wait to make one!!!
Amazing doll. I'm going to have to give this a try. That was nice of you to post the pattern, thanks!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Again, thank you for this pattern!
It seemed only proper to write it up and contribute it to the fans. He's not so very grateful. After all that work, he just looks at me as if to say, "Where's ROSE? Where's my TARDIS?"
Really, who wouldn't ask if they saw a crochet pink dalek?
He definitely needs a Rose and a TARDIS. There's a knit TARDIS pattern out there, but unless you use smaller needles, it might be a little big for him.
I have a question.
I was reading though the pattern and under the instructions for the coat, you have:
Use black yarn for all parts
but then, under the instructions for the coat sleeves, you have:
Using cream yarn (skin color)
It's supposed to be made in black, right?
I went to your journal and saw your pink dalek. Sweet!
Oh, I did start making it tonight and there is one very simple typo I found, not really a big deal for someone how knows what they are doing:
TORSO
Work in rounds using black yarn.
1. Sc 5.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 6. 12 sts.
3. (Sc into next st, 2 sc next st) x 6. 18 sc.
By the math, it should be ch 6...
like I said, for people who know what they are doing, they'd "get it" right away, but there are some people that really won't "get it" at all, I found.
This is an awesome pattern and I am having no problems understanding at all :D I totally love it! Next I might have to attempt a Tenth Doctor amigurumi! *grin*
Thanks! My daughter choose the colours lol
I am really hoping to get the pattern written up and posted, but I misplaced my notes and I'm having problems remembering what I did lol
As soon as I find notes, I'm going to work on that again :D
I mean sc 6
*slapsforehead*
As for notes, I sympathize. I was typing it up based on scribbled notes with lots of cross outs. And some of the numbers didn't add up!
I probably will do a Tenth Doctor as a variant of this one. Longer coat, more hair, tie. I definitely would like to do a little Rose, and maybe have different outfits for her (the punkyfish hoodie, futuristic Long Game outfit, the pink poodle skirt).
I am actually a tester on a crochet board, Lullabies and Lace, right now. She does alot of baby stuff, but occasionally, she will have some really nice accessories and other stuff, I really have learned alot from her.
I am also a member over at Crochetville, which is an awesome board where crocheters share their projects, ask for help, share things and just a whole bunch of stuff, but they are VERY strict about copyright, so posting anything like this doll using the Doctor Who name is pretty much taboo, but the board is a wonderful resource.
You're very welcome! Have you written patterns before? If not, it becomes very addictive!
If you just typed this from scribbled notes (which I do alot of the time too lol), you really did a good job at it! I have seen a lot of patterns out there that were just a mess and difficult to read!
I'll be looking forward to seeing your Ten and Rose patterns!
I've been a tester, too, for Bella Knitting, a company started by some folks I know from a LYS.
Crochetville looks like the counterpart to Knitter's Review, which I'm more familiar with. There is just so much stuff! How can you keep up with it all? Once I get on Ravelry...
I only have patterns written for my projects when I used Knitscape software, and even those aren't completely accurate b/c I changed things. I'll try posting a pattern in the future and see if there's any interest; otherwise, it is a lot of extra work to write them, isn't it? :)
lol All of the time! I always end up "tweaking" the pattern until it's how I like it :D
it is a lot of extra work to write them, isn't it? :)
It really is, but I love it! I love the challenge of the process of creating the new pattern and the feeling of accomplishment is always wonderful :)
I love testing also and I have met alot of wonderful ladies while testing also, even though it is all online, we have become rather close, like family.
OH! I have Nine's torso, both arms and one leg finished and the arms and leg are sewn on to the torso! I just started the other foot. He is turning out to be soooo cute! Still headless, but cute lol
I'm struggling to design Rose's "boobs" right now - curving bump in the front but not in the back. I didn't want to use short rows (knitting thing), so that it would be easier to follow, but I think I may have to. It looks weird when I try just increases or taller stitches.
I couldn't join in the knit-a-long because I couldn't afford the yarn at the time when it started(I also knit), but it's been fun watching everyone else's progress and I know where to go if I have questions when I finally can start my own DW scarf!
Oh, and I just found
:)
(The cute Smallville version)
I'm supposedly in a non-friending mode at the moment because of some legal stuff in my LJ but you know what, after reading your profile, I GOTTA friend you! I'm going to go on the theory that you're too busy making cool stuff to rat me out to the people I'm having legal issues with. :D
I'm honored! LJ has a nice feature that allows you to make as many custom friends groups/lists as you like. Then when you write a post, you can select which of your custom friends groups gets to see it (relatives, friends, fans!). If you need any help setting up this feature, just PM me. :)
You are fantabulous. Thanks again.
Hope you don't mind...I'll be making a new post with links to people who have recently made new dolls, and I would like to link to you. Also, you are welcome to join the Doctor Who Chibis and Friends group on Flickr.com. :D
cheerio!
<3 Snuffykin
^-^